A Vintage Chanel Jewelry Study
I’ve been collecting 80s & 90s Chanel jewelry since my S&S days. What first drew me in was the richness of the 24kt gold-plated finishes, which sadly was discontinued in the early 2000s. These are the pieces that felt substantial, bold, and unlike anything being made today.
My collection started with the iconic coin earrings and eventually blossomed into statement earrings and pendant necklaces. While I appreciate all vintage Chanel jewelry, I don’t necessarily want to wear all of it. Some pieces lean heavily into ornate costume glamour, while others still feel timeless decades later.
Over the years, I’ve handled hundreds of pieces and spent countless hours studying archives, dealer collections, and auction listings. What’s become clear is that I naturally filter the category through wearability and polish—pieces that complete an outfit versus pieces that are the outfit.
So instead of organizing this study by type, I’m sharing the five style themes I return to again and again.
Iconic Classics
When I think of Chanel jewelry, this is where my mind goes first.
Coin earrings, short collar necklaces, chain bracelets, classic bangles, and simple logo pieces form the foundation of a vintage Chanel collection. They’re instantly recognizable without feeling costume-y, and they’re some of the easiest pieces to wear in everyday life.
Chanel produced coin earrings in multiple sizes (roughly ¾”–1.5”) with countless variations over the years. Most vintage pairs are clip-ons, since Chanel didn’t introduce pierced earrings until the early 2000s—which I actually prefer for more substantial statement styles like these.
They add polish to the simplest combinations: a button-down, denim, cashmere, ballet flats, or an easy dress.
Statement-Making
These are the pieces that stop me in my tracks.
What I love most about them is that they’re bold without feeling overly ornate. There’s often a clean graphic quality to vintage Chanel jewelry that still feels surprisingly modern today.
Statement cuffs, oversized pendants, sculptural earrings, and symbolic motifs all fall into this category for me. Chanel frequently referenced clovers, hearts, lions, hats, flowers, stars, and other emblems throughout its jewelry collections. Coco Chanel had a lifelong fascination with symbolism, which I absolutely adore.
When styled well, they can really push an outfit past its limits. I love them paired with graphic prints, strong contrast, and warm hues that allow the jewels to take center stage.
These aren’t necessarily everyday pieces—but they’re unforgettable ones you can count on for special occasions.
Feminine & Artful
This might be my favorite theme at the moment.
These pieces feel playful, colorful, feminine, and a little artful. They’re often the styles that make me stop and smile the most when I’m sourcing.
When people think of vintage Chanel jewelry, they often picture gold logos and pearls. But there was also a more joyful side to the jewelry—rainbow beads, colorful stones, layered elements, cutout shapes, and pieces that felt a little quirky.
I’m always hunting for colored Chanel jewelry, although it’s surprisingly difficult to find…snag it when you can! I’m also drawn to matte gold finishes from specific seasons as it feels softer and more relaxed than the traditional high-shine plating.
These are the types of pieces that really bring personality into a wardrobe.
Boho Chic
When the weather warms up, this is where my eye naturally goes.
I find myself drawn to lighter, airier pieces—long pendants, rope details, tassels, drop earrings, chunky chains, and jewelry that feels more fluid than structured.
One of the most interesting things I noticed while putting together this study was how many smaller brooches Chanel produced throughout the 1980s and 1990s. While oversized logo brooches get most of the attention today, there were also countless petite versions around an inch in size. I’ve officially added one to my personal shopping list!
Pinned onto a lapel, a lightweight cardigan, or even the collar of a button-down, they feel subtle, elegant, and incredibly wearable.
This side of Chanel is a reminder that it wasn’t always about excess.
Relaxed Elegance
This category feels like effortless confidence.
I picture someone hosting friends in the backyard, wandering through a market, or heading to dinner after a long summer day—casual but still polished.
I’m especially drawn to earthy stones, simple drop earrings, refined cuffs, and pieces that add interest without dominating an outfit. There’s something about these styles that feel luxurious.
They’re less about making a statement and more about creating a feeling.
One thing you might notice throughout this roundup is that I didn’t include many pearl or rhinestone pieces. While I love them, they tend to read a bit more glamorous and seasonal to me—something I gravitate toward more in the fall and during the holidays. Maybe that’s a study for another day!
