An Outerwear Study
Buying winter outerwear is usually an investment—something you want in your wardrobe for years to come. It’s a category worth collecting, especially if you live in San Francisco, where layering is a year-round thing. Sometimes, when the fog rolls in thick, we even wear wool in the summer.
Shopping for coats online can feel overwhelming, especially with darker, heavier colors that hide all the details. I pulled all the coats I wear and love from my closet, experimented by creating outfits around them, and noticed certain details that make a coat work. Here’s a framework I’m going to use when I’m shopping for this category in the future:
1. Fit & Proportion
Lapel size and shape: Sharp or rounded? This sets the presence of the coat and influences how it looks on your body.
Chest opening: How open is it? This affects layering and practicality.
Shoulder and sleeve construction: Traditional, raglan, or drop shoulder? This changes how the coat fits over sweaters and how polished it feels.
Collar length: Where does the collar end? For shorter frames, avoid open necklines that drop below the waist.
Coat length: I prefer mid-thigh for shorter coats, just above the knee for longer styles, and full-length only when I want a dressier vibe or am somewhere cold.
2. Fabric & Warmth
Fabric weight: This affects both drape and warmth.
Texture and richness: I like fabrics with a subtle texture or speckle—they instantly feel more luxurious.
3. Details & Finishing Touches
Buttons: Color, size, and placement matter—they can elevate a coat.
Sleeve details: Can they be rolled? Do they have buttons? Small details make a big difference.
Other accents: Pockets, stitching, and lining all add character and functionality.
4. Style & Attitude
Think about the overall vibe: casual, polished, statement-making, modern, or dressy. Consider how it layers with your existing wardrobe and the mood you want it to convey.
Here’s a closer look at my winter coat collection, excluding casual puffers and sherpa— that category needs an overhaul before it’s worthy of sharing!
The jacket I reach for the most is my double faced wool jacket from Mango because it has incredible drape. I own it both in black and a lighter color (that’s sadly not available anymore) and wear it in SF year round. I really love that they released it in a chocolate brown color this year. If you try it just make sure to size down.
I’d love a red coat some day too, this longer one is also so so good! And Alexa Buckley Roussel now has me dreaming of a red trench for spring.
Vintage Coat
This vintage camel hair coat from the 1950s or ’60s was gifted to me by my former business partner and something I’ll treasure forever. The fit and the details are exceptional—the thicker stitching on the collar, the belt, the sleeve buttons. They truly don’t make them like they used to!
Anytime I wear my pink faux‑fur jacket, I get compliments. Can you believe it’s old H&M? I’ve had it for years and still love it. A faux‑fur coat is always fun this time of year—whether for dressier occasions or everyday wear.
Vintage Theory Coat
Vintage and secondhand outerwear is one of my favorite categories to shop, especially on The RealReal. There are so many incredible options, and once you know what you like, outerwear becomes surprisingly timeless. This isn’t a category you need to constantly refresh. It’s more about finding pieces that fit beautifully and align with your personal vibe.
I found this Theory jacket at a consignment shop in San Francisco a couple of weekends ago and love the fit. The collar is a thick sweater material that pulls up around the neck for extra coziness, and the shiny buttons give it a slightly dressier feel.
This grey double‑breasted coat from J.Crew has been in my closet since 2018. I don’t reach for it often because it’s more fitted than the others, but when it works, it really works. I like having a polished, traditional option in my collection for when that’s the whole vibe.
Vintage Max Mara Coat, Max Mara Coat
You’ve already heard me rave about this vintage Max Mara cashmere coat I found on The RealReal a couple of months ago—but I’m obsessed. I’ve always wanted a Max Mara coat for the fit and fabric. The sleeve construction is unlike anything else, sewn under the arm so it feels relaxed and incredibly comfortable. It’s an investment, new or vintage, but one I know I’ll have for years.
And color‑wise, I can’t believe it took me this long to own a chocolate brown coat. It goes with everything just like black.
This black wool coat is slightly longer, with drop shoulders, a larger lapel, and a tie closure. It feels dressier and has an unmistakable ’80s vibe. The heavier fabric gives it structure without feeling stiff, and I feel especially luxe wearing it this time of year.
I’d love a full‑length fur coat someday, and I’m always drawn to fur collars and cuff details, luxe embroidery, colorful plaids, and leopard prints. Also love this one.
Now that I have the basics covered, next on my list is a vintage Missoni, Etro, or Valentino statement coat! I just am obsessed with this one Julia has and omg look at this. Keeping my eyes and heart open and wishing you all the same for your collections.
